Friday, January 12, 2007

Any questions, comments suggestions?

Notice any resemblence? Nah, neither did I.

Hey everyone! Just wanted to ask if anyone back home in the Land of Oz has any blog subjects they would like me to include. Sometimes it's hard to know what to write or what people want to know so your comments would be appreciated. Happy reading!

Public Transport in the Philippines

Something that foreigners like myself find challenging in a place like the Philippines is learning to get around on the many different forms of public transport. In the Philippines there are 8 major forms: Taxi, FX, Train, Bus, Jeepney, Tricycle, Motorcycle and Pedi cab.

  • Taxi – The most expensive form of public transport and sometimes prone to be a little more expense than necessary if one doesn’t insist on using the meter or has no idea where they are going. The best tip is to agree on the location and using the meter before getting in. Once you are in exhaust your knowledge of the Tagalog language so that the driver thinks you know what you’re doing and where you’re going. But be careful, it can backfire if you have no idea what you’re saying or the taxi driver becomes very friendly and asks for your phone number!
  • FX – An FX is like a long wheel base 4WD with two passengers in the front with the driver, four in the back seat (I advise against the middle seats as the steel supports under the seat become a literal “pain in the butt” after 5-10 minutes) and then four are seated sideways opposite each other in the back/boot/trunk/storage area (pick your terminology). It costs up to 40P or (1AUD or 0.75USD) for a long trip. But the advantage is that its still air conditioned, well most of the time anyway.
  • Train – The next form of transportation in order of price (but often faster than driving) is the train. It costs about 15 PhP (0.40AUD or 0.30USD) for a one way trip from one end of the line to the other. which has 3 main lines in Manila. The MRT, LRT and LRTA. I use the MRT often and find it comfortable enough with its air conditioning and occasional available seat.Trains are great to use in Manila but just be prepared to fight for a seat. Just kidding. The people are very friendly despite the fact that I have never been offered a seat on a train.
  • Bus – Next in the list of relatively comfortable and inexpensive longer transportation methods is the bus. But there’s “aircon” and “air” con buses. Just make sure on the longer trips in an air conditioned bus to take a sweater or jacket as Filipinos like extremes. They crank the air conditioning to highest level whenever possible! And be aware that out in the province it can get very full on the smaller buses. Oh, and I almost forgot to mention that Filipino buses are not built with western people in mind. The seats are closer together and I inevitably find myself with my average length white western legs forced against the seat in front or out in the aisle. It's hard to give prices but a long overnight trip to the mountains might cost you up to 300-400P (10AUD or 7.50USD) but a short ride in the city would only set you back 10P (0.30AUD or 0.25USD)
  • Jeepney – Then comes the famous jeepneys which are probably the best example of “sardinization” I can find in the Philippines. In other words people cram themselves inside like sardines. They have a set route and cost a minimum of 6PhP and anywhere up to about 20PhP but average about 10P (0.30AUD or 0.25USD). Needless to say, they are not air conditioned. You sit sideways trying not to stare at the people opposite you despite that everyone else in the jeepney is staring at your pigmentation. Just keep in mind that you need to know the route you are taking quite well or make some new friends on board because it's very difficult to see landmarks outside. Oh, in the province you might be forced or choose to ride on the roof of a jeepney. It can be quite dangerous though so think it through carefully. The drivers have spent a little too much time dreaming that they are Colin McRae or Michael Schumacher. And with a vehicle that is quite top heavy cornering can be an interesting experience on top. But by far away the more interesting experience is dodging the electric wires in some provincial areas. I once found myself “astride one of these mighty beasts” ducking and weaving to avoid the electrical wires which were coming so close to us perched on sacks of rice that we often had to lay down flat on our backs in order to avoid being knocked off like dominoes. Just don’t tell my mum about it ok! Shhh…Hop on board. There's still plenty of room (If you don't mind dodging the electrical wires up here).
  • Tricycle – The next famous form of public transport is the tricycle. A motorcycle fixed with double shock absorbers and a side car can seriously hold up to 2-3 behind the driver, 5-6 inside and even a few hanging off the back on top. I’ve tried every position and enjoyed the experience sitting cross legged on top sipping my fresh buko (young coconut) juice straight from the fruit. There were only a few times I needed to hold on for dear life! Tricycles normally operate within a certain area in the city like a subdivision and can cost per person (5-10PhP) or a special of one to two people (20-40PhP) depending on the length of the trip and how well you can negotiate with the driver. In the province different areas have different designs. Pagadian for example has the side car set on a 45 degree angle so that you sit back into the car as you ascend and descend the steep road to and from the bus terminal and the city centre. You could probably walk up the hill faster than the tricycle but the experience is well worth it.Tricycles in Zamboanga
  • Motorcycle – By far the craziest form of transport is by motorcycle. They cost a similar price to tricycles but go door to door in provincial areas. I know it might seem innocent enough. “Just hop on the back of the rider”. I used to think that way until I saw up to 10 people on one motorcycle. How is that possibel you ask? They attached planks of wood on the back which people straddle and then put weights on the front forks to maintain the balance. I’ve only been on with 4 other people and our luggage. One in front of the and driver, me straddling the luggage tied to the side with my arms full of 2 or 3 backpacks, then two passengers behind me with their hands full too. This was on dirt roads at around 60kph mind you. Despite the cowboy style legs sticking out both sides of the bike causing me to stretch myself more than I cared to, it felt surprisingly stable and comfortable. It’s a different story as the driver though. I took two other people on a scooter down dirt roads a few times and now admire these guys who manage to sit so awkwardly but drive with so much control and poise.
  • Pedi cab – The final form of public transportation is the pedi cab which is the same as a tricycle but under pedal power rather than engine power. Consequently, you travel much shorter distances, much slower and at a lot less cost. Maybe 10P door to door. I rarely use them because I can usually walk the same distance and feel lazy if I take one. But it does help the small young guys with legs like tree trunks to make a living.Hey Joe! Gusto mo ba ng mga isda o pedi cab lang? Would like some fish or just a pedi cab?

A mountain paradise

Our legs grew tired of walking up mountains but our eyes never grew tired of looking upon this wonderful sceneryI’ve always enjoyed hiking, but these days my body is complaining more about it than my brain is. I really need to exercise more regularly otherwise hiking will become more of a impossible dream than a possible reality. Take for instance my trip to Batad with some friends of mine. After a 9 hour overnight bus ride and a hour or so hanging on for dear life at the back of a jeepney we arrived at the summit near the small town of Batad. We took a deep breath of fresh air, snapped a few obligatory photos and threw the packs on our backs with enthusiasm and expectancy.

We had heard about Batad and wanted to see if it was as idyllic as the tourism brochures and tourists blogs had made it seem. As we made our way down the stepped path winding its way down into the valley below we watched the traditional ceremony being conducted in the distance. Red smoke wafted from one of the distant ridges as tribal people appeared to pray and dance around the fire. We never did get the real story behind it though.

Tappia Falls with my friends Jeff (front), Chris, Me, Kirk and Chris (from left to right)After a hearty lunch of omelet and pita bread with mountain tea we unpacked things and decided to embark on our first adventure (as if the events of the night and morning had not been enough for any intrepid adventurer). The local people told us that the waterfall was worth visiting so we got a few directions (which consisted of its over there beyond that ridge) and set out with our cameras and day packs. As we approached the rice terraces that we needed to navigate we split up into two groups. Not by choice mind you. I followed one of my friends and the rest decided to go a different way after getting some bargains and better directions at one of the huts on the way. They ended taking the line of least resistance across the rice terraces about halfway up the mountain. But my friend and I founded some less well maintained tracks up and down and across the terrace walls. We knew that we were taking the alternative route about half way into it when we spotted our friends having a easier time of it. But through sheer force of will and some creative negotiations and climbing we made our way to the meeting point on the opposite ridge via part of the town in the valley. I’m still perplexed as to how these people who are often 80+ make there way up and down the terraces gracefully and effortlessly. I did notice that part of the trick lies in rocking from side to side as they negotiated the small rock steps spaced diagonally on the sides of the terrace walls. There’s gotta be more to it than that though cos I still looked more like a bumbling tourist than a seasoned old timer. Upon arriving we made friends with the local children who then showed us the way to the path after we “bribed” them with some snacks. Then we breathed a sigh of relief as we looked at the downward path entering the next valley. It was a welcome relief to our tired and sweaty bodies. After taking one wrong path (stay to the left) we found our way to the lookout and beheld one of the most beautiful and powerful waterfalls I have ever seen. We took a few pics and then descended to take a dip in the “cool” waters. When everyone plucked up the courage and after much coaxing we all decided to brave the current and try our luck at going into deeper water closer to the waterfall. One of the guys (Kirk) and myself ended up being a little braver or crazier than the others by struggling our way around the edge of the far rocky shore to get in behind the waterfall. I tell you, it’s easier said than done. The only point of real nervousness came on the way out as my knee smashed into a submerged rock and the underwater current threatened to pull me back in under the waterfall. Having been suitably refreshed we took more pics and then made our way back up the path that seemed to wind endlessly upwards. Then we navigated a little more successfully the route back to our accommodation at Simon’s Inn on the opposite ridge.

I think I can! I think I can! Oh man I gotta take a rest...I think I went to bed about 6pm that night as I hadn’t slept for the previous 3 nights and felt like my legs were about to give way. I slept through the night until about 8am the next day which was a welcome relief. And surprisingly enough, my legs didn’t feel too bad in the morning. So with plenty of rest and motivation to do some more exploring we decided to tackle to opposite ridge again, but this time we would go up to the viewpoint rather than down to the waterfall. My legs almost gave in a few times as I felt like “the little train that couldn’t” more than the one that could. But the view was worth it (I think, but can’t be too sure because I still had to go down again afterwards). But with the little side to side action and the force of gravity helping me I wobbled my way back down the mountain after getting all the rest and nourishment I could. We then managed to find our way to a little place to eat down in the valley where Chris and I had gotten geographically embarrassed the previous day.

One of my favourite things about Batad is the inquisitive and playful children who played “swordsman” using bamboo poles with us, a form of hopscotch and some other games we just made up on the spot. Then we got directions to a hanging bridge we had heard about which were surprisingly accurate, except for the fact that they forgot to tell me about the man-eating dog that tried to attack me. I was in his back yard mind you! But then again in my defense, you never know what marks one’s persons property from the next one or if the fence means “keep out” or “come in”. We did, nevertheless, make it to the hanging bridge and manage to pluck up the courage to float and walk down the river and around the rocks.

If you ever get the chance, try standing face forward leaning into a fast current (you just need a sloping rock to stand on which enables you to stay in one place). I’ve never been sky diving but I’m sure the sensation is the same! A little nerve wracking at times when the pressure threatens to sweep you away but an awesome experience as your immoveable body and the opposing power leaves you with an almost weightless feeling.

The sun was going down so we decided it was time to make our way back to the inn which was pretty much straight up from where we were. Let me give you some advice at this point, don’t try to make your way through rice terraces at night. The paths are barely noticeable during the day let alone in fading light or darkness. Suffice to say, we learnt the hard way.

I think part of the reason why people can navigate the rice terraces so easily is that they are a lot lower to the ground! Kirk and Chris standing either side of one of our hostsThat night we stayed up playing a little cards and decided to leave the following morning because a friend from Manila was expecting us to come and visit him in the mountains close to where we were. It may have been “close” but it still took us 4 jeepney rides including one mudslide obstacle, several hours of traveling. Not to mention plenty of stares by locals who found it hilarious that 3 out of the 5 us insisted on sitting on the roof of the jeepneys as they wound through the mountain roads. We arrived at the "nearby" town (which we though was our destination) at about 4.30pm only to find out we need to hike for another 4 hours literally “into the clouds”. It brought a new realization to the quote that “we walk by faith not by sight” as we navigated our way up the mountain passes as the sun went down and the moon shone dimly on the other side of the mountain we were climbing. But we made it to our destination around 9pm that night. Native duck soup, vegetables and mountain rice has never tasted so good! We all collapsed into bed under mosquito nets and finally fell asleep to the sound of mosquitoes trying to find an alternate route under the mosquito nets and sink their teeth into our sweet white skin.

The next day we did it all in reverse and trudged, rnn or rolled our way down the mountain, into a tricycle and then onto a bus back home to Manila. The tourism brochures and tourists blogs were right. It is a mounatin paradise.